Archive for May, 2009

Non-Hybrid Vegetable Seeds For Survival

Sunday, May 31st, 2009


 

Non-Hybrid Vegetable Seeds

 

Non-Hybrid Vegetable Seeds For Survival are the best way to ensure that you are eating the healthiest food’s. Many food are injected with chemical’s that completely change the fruit’s and vegetable’s that are sold in our grocery stores on a daily basis.

It’s sad to say, but in their race for more profit’s the crop owner’s AND the Food and drug administration have allowed our food source’s to be changed in such a way , that they are no where NEAR organic.

Unfortunately many people beive that this is the only way to keep the world fed.

Well, I will not get into an argument over that -BUT, I will say that we should atleast choose for ourselve’s whether or not we should eat vegetable’s that have been injected with pesticide gene’s.(Yes -Pesticide Genes)

Checkout Non-Hybrid Vegetable Seed Listing’s

What Are Non-Hybrid Vegetable Seeds?

Non-Hybrid vegetable seed’s are sometime’s refered to as “Survival Seed’s” , for there ability to produce seeds’ after harvest -which is another thing that the hybrid seed’s will not do. 

These survival seed’s will provide completely organic vegetable’s and they are truly the healthiest alternative.  The vegetable’s can be grown on smaller plot’s of land if need be, and still produce a nice harvest. And you can buy a decent size survival seed pack for a reasonable price as well. Obviously, they arent quite as cheap as the hybrid seed’s, but it’s hard to produce them at such a low cost, when they have to be harvested by a smaller group of people. But price’s should decrease over time.The more people that want them, the cheaper they will become , due to the amount that will be produced.

Non-Hybrid Vegetable Seed’s Have A Very Long Shelf Life

Now, the other thing that make these non-hybrid survival seed’s so invaluable , is there ability to last on shelve’s for more than 15-20 year’s. So buying for the future is definitely something that these particular seed’s are created for. 

If anything was ever to happen, whether it be economic catastrophe or any kind of food shortage, non-hybrid survival sed owner’s would have something more valuable than all the gold in the world. Think about it – if you have teh only kind of seed’s that could produce seed’s everytime you grew, wouldnt that be a huge insurance policy?

Its the kind of thing that could save a family, and keep them in fed in the face of adversity.

Different Survival Seed’s

When it come’s to the type’s of Non-Hybrid Vegetable seed’s, most are actually thye same. But the difference is in which vegetable seed’s come in the “pack’s”. And of course the size is different as well. Some site’s offer a 1 size for 1 price pack.Like 10,000 for $100 -or you could get more or less, with different food options.

I have a link that will take you to a review site that offer’s each of the 3 Top Nonm-Hybrid Vegetable Seed Sites.

 

Non-Hybrid Survival Vegetable Seeds

Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/nonhybrid-vegetable-seeds-for-survival-945442.html

Garden Fertilizer – Should It Be Manure, Bone Meal Or Lime?

Thursday, May 28th, 2009


March winds and April showers bring forth May flowers, so runs the old saying. A little hard work helps, too, and if the first two arrive on schedule the spring work will be well under way. It also takes good soil to produce flowers but what to add and what not to add to make it good is often a problem. Should it be manure, bone meal or lime?

Every garden needs fertilizer in some form in the spring and when the second crops go into the soil in summer the plant foods need to be replenished. Farmyard manure, particularly cow manure, is still considered an ideal fertilizer by many gardeners. For flower and vegetable gardens it should be fresh manure, not rotted. A good organic dry fertilizer is favored by many in preference to chemical fertilizers. Dry fertilizers are best used in combination with liberal amounts of rotted compost. Theyre available everywhere, and frequently are specially prepared for various kinds of plants and flowers as well as vegetables.

Lime is often beneficial and sometimes necessary but it is usually not needed every year. Low lying, heavy wet soils are likely to need it every second year. Average soil requires lime once each three or four years. However, outside of the lime belt it might be needed more frequently. When in doubt about the needs of your soil your state experiment station or local farm bureau will test it for you or you can purchase a simple home soil testing kit that will provide all the needed information.

Superphosphate

Superphosphate should be added to the soil when cow manure is used, since the latter generally lacks phosphates or at least enough for best results.

Perennial Borders

Perennial borders need a little extra nourishment in the spring as soon as there is sufficient growth to show where all the plants are. Manure and bone meal or dry fertilizer should be dug in. Perennial borders properly fed and cared for will grow along for years. Large clumps of perennials can be separated now unless they are the spring blooming kind but fall is the better time for this job if there are many plants to be divided.

Gall on Spruce Trees

Spruce tree gall is caused by a midge that lays its eggs on the young tips of the spruce tree, and the developing young within the plant cause the formation of galls or burrs. Affected trees should be sprayed with a miscible oil spray that has been diluted according to instructions for use on evergreens.

Shaded Corner Garden

A shaded corner in the garden or a northern exposure is ideal for tuberous begonias. Start them in flats in an enclosed porch or in the greenhouse in equal quantities of sand, leafmold or peatmoss and soil. Plant with the rounded end down and about one-third of the tuber exposed. When they have made an inch or two of growth and there is no danger of frost they can be planted out into well-prepared soil in the shade. They can also be potted into 4 or 5-inch pots and put outdoors later on. (This is safer where there is danger of a late frost.)

Gladiolus

Plant gladiolus as soon as the ground is ready. To do their best gladiolus should have rich soil. Plant about 4 inches deep and for a longer season put in succession plantings up to July 15. To control thrips spray the plants every two weeks with malathion. Do not plant gladiolus in the same spot two years in succession.

Planting A Strawberry

Strawberry plants should be planted this month to bear fruit next year. To be sure of a good crop of berries prepare the bed with liberal quantities of manure or compost and dry fertilizer and water well in dry weather. Either young plants from an old bed or purchased plants may be set out. It does not pay to keep a bed past its second fruiting year. For best results dig one old bed under each year after taking the young runner plants from it. Then start a new bed with them. Start the new bed in a spot that has not had strawberries in it for at least two years.

Vegetables

Vegetables to sow. Seeds suggested for March sewing, if not already in, can still be sown new. In late April or early May put in succession sowings of lettuce, beets, carrots and radishes, and the first sewing of green beans. Even a first sewing of cern could go in if the garden is in a favored spot and you wish to take a chance. Small frequent succession sewings assure a constant supply of first class vegetables. Also in late April plant out all hardy vegetables – broccoli, cabbage, lettuce and cauliflower. Do not put out tender plants till after May 15 to 25.

Annuals

Start annuals now including marigolds, zinnias, cosmos and asters, all fast-growing plants. These if can be sewn indoors or outdoors late in April and May in the locations where they are to flower. After germination thin out the seedlings. These annuals often flower best when sewn outdoors directly but these sewn indoors and then set out flower earlier.

Chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum cuttings for fall flowering may be taken in April and May. Take the tops of strong, healthy growth and root in sand. Use a rooting hormone. It is also a good time to divide outdoor patio plants with several stems, taking a small piece of root with each part. Such a division is called an “Irishmans cutting” and can be started in a soil mixture in pets or flats. This is particularly good for outdoor chrysanthemums or where there is no greenhouse. Outdoor chrysanthemums should be lifted each spring, broken up in this manner, and then started off again as separate plants. They will need to be pinched several times to make them branch. Plants net divided become thin, weak and flower poorly.

Harden off plants before setting out. Seedlings started in a greenhouse, hotbed or perch are tender and must be hardened off before planting out time. Even such hardy types as lettuce and cabbage freeze easily if taken from the warm indoors and immediately planted into the garden. Place the plants on a cool porch or in a coldframe for about 10 days, allowing the temperature to become quite low and give plenty of ventilation. On extremely cold nights they need covering to keep out frost.

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Choosing the Type of Sod for Landscaping

Thursday, May 28th, 2009


Sodding has a number of advantages over seeding and that is why a lot of people prefer it. A green lawn or a recreational surface is easily achievable with sod. It also addresses erosion and controls it right away. Sod also eliminates dust and mud so it is almost as good as done once you plant it. While establishing sod for landscaping, it also has weed control.

Another good trait is that it can be planted all year round so there would be no problems whichever season a homeowner might want to attend to landscape their front yard or backyard. The best reason to choose it over seeding is that it can be used for total installation or smaller pieces can be bought to repair smaller areas.

Your first step is to choose the right type of sod. You need to choose sod that will not only have the right appearance but also how much maintenance it needs to thrive. For instance, there are certain types of sod that do well with shade while others do better with sun exposure. This means that the layout of the back or front yard should also be considered to make sure the sod that is chosen will survive.

You must also consider the consider the climate before selecting the type of sod to be used. Not all varieties will do well in cold climates, hot climates, or places where it is rainy all the time. There are also sods that can withstand high traffic areas better than others so if a lot of activities for the future lawn is in mind, it is best to consider those.

Kentucky Bluegrass does well in northern climates but there is a need to water it regularly to keep it green. It needs more water than warm season grasses such as Tall Fescue. Fescue will do well in moist areas and it will be able to adapt to different kinds of soil and it is preferred for high traffic areas. Bermuda is one of the most difficult ot grow and maintain because it doesn’t do well in shade and is best for southern climates.

Zoysia is also does well in southern climates and it likes clay and sandy soil while growing quite well in the sun. One of the advantages of Zoysia is that it also does well in shade and is naturally-sresistant to weeds. You can also combine different varieties of sod to improve the adaptability to your climate. Sod is a great choice when you are planning your yard or garden but it is a good to start to know which type would be best suited to your geographical area.

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Differences with the pH Readings between Two Meters

Wednesday, May 27th, 2009


There are observed differences in the field between two pH meters’ readings. This can get many growers confused with the true value of the pH of the medium on which their plants grow. This article will answer the confusion.

The acidity or alkalinity of the soil or solution, which is very important with growing plants, is measured with a pH meter. pH, or the power of Hydrogen, is the concentration of H+ ions for acidic solutions and OH- ions for basic solutions. The pH is a critical factor in the plant’s growth as it is directly related to the availability of the nutrients.

Some growers noticed that their pH readings usually fluctuate when tested with two different meters in the same nutrient solution. There are several possibilities that can be attributed for this fluctuation.

One of the possible reasons is that the two pH meters use different brands of batteries. One set of batteries used in one pH meter might be older than the other battery used in the other meter. Though the batteries supply the same voltage, the power from older batteries is normally weaker than the newer one. Moreover, even a slight corrosion on batteries can also cause differences in pH readings.

Unseen dirt on probes can also affect the pH reading’s accuracy. Therefore, probes need to be cleaned regularly to prevent the accumulation of dirt and salt crystals.

Growers need as well to understand that pH meters have a limitation in the accurate measurement of the pH value. Hobby meters, which are usually used by growers, might display a slightly different reading from the laboratory bench meters.

Hobby meters can cost up to $250 but they are cheaper versions in contrast to the laboratory pH meters. Laboratory pH meters are priced around $1000. Nevertheless, if the difference is just 0.3 or less, this difference is not that significant to generalize that the pH meter reading from the hobby meters is inaccurate. Thus, growers need not to worry about their pH readings from hobby meters. After all, who would spend a thousand dollars for a typical hydroponic garden?

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Square Foot Gardening Tips: March

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009


Patti Moreno, The Garden Girl & Mel Bartholomew of Square Foot Gardening, discuss what gardeners are doing in the month of March. Don’t forget to visit squarefootgardening.com and gardengirltv.com for more. Distributed by Tubemogul.

Similar uses for both Coffee Grounds and Urine

Monday, May 25th, 2009


What do coffee grounds and human urine have in common? Both are useful and abundant natural forms of fertilizer which don’t have to be bought. Natural fertilizers of course are materials that contain plant nutrients obtained from the remains of an organism, while synthetic chemical fertilizers are nutrients produced from inorganic materials. This article does not address the issue of what are the positive and negative aspects of chemical versus natural fertilizers. It is explained here as to how two household ingredients viz., coffee grounds and urine, can be used as a replacement for commercial fertilizers.

Urine Urine is an excellent source of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, the three major plant nutrients. For use in fertilizer, it is also available in the ideal chemical form liquid. Except in certain specific cases, urine should be diluted before being used as a fertilizer to reduce its high acidic levels. Utilize gray water or rainwater to dilute urine is a terrific choice. The dirty water the drains out of sinks, showers, and washing machines is known as gray water. It is a completely hazard-free supply of water for irrigating purposes. The traces of detergent phosphates it often contains are a valuable fertilizer for plants, but when gray water flows into rivers and lakes, phosphate traces become pollutants. Nitrate-rich urine combined with phosphate-rich gray water produce a balanced liquid fertilizer for all kinds of plants.

Mix water and urine in the following ratios (determined by their application):

* Ten to 15 parts water to one part urine if it is to be applied on plants in the growth stage.

*Use a solution of thirty -fifty parts water to one part urine if you will be using it for potted plants. Fertilizers are more effective on potted plants.

*You may use one part urine to three parts water, in case to use urine as soil fertilizer.

* Urine may also be used as a fungicide on trees because it contains urea. In this case, you should use one part urine to three parts water. Without damaging your tree leaves or the trees themselves, this product will rid the fungus from the your trees.

Human urine is completely sterile and does not contain any bacteria. Neither the urine from a person infected with Bilharzia, Typhoid Fever or any kind of urinary tract infections, should be used to fertilize plants. The first of these, Bilharzia, rarely exists outside of tropical aquatic climates. The Typhoid Fever causing bacteria is deactivated very shortly after excretion.

The best urine to use as fertilizer is fresh having been created within the past 24 hours. If not used right away, the urea in urine will turn into ammonia, which can burn plants. In addition, you shouldn’t apply urine as fertilizer for plants that will be eaten at least two weeks prior to harvest, and remember to use it beneath fruit trees instead of on the fruit and leaves.

Urine that is a few hours old is a great activator for compost heaps.

China, Zimbabwe, and Mexico for example are several countries have and are installing urine fertilization projects. However this solution will not work only for third world countries. In Sweden and Finland researchers concluded that human urine can be a very high-quality plant fertilizer.

Some advantages of using urine as a natural liquid fertilizer are:

* Reducing sewage pollution by reducing gray water in sewer or septic systems

* Using human urine would help reduce water consumption like toilet flushing

* Some professionals believe that human urine is a more effective fertilizer than sewage compost since sewage sludge contains organic and inorganic chemical contaminants and pathogenic microorganisms.

* Human urine is absolutely free

Coffee Grounds:Though their use is usually limited to private gardens and houseplants, used coffee grounds can be used both as a plant fertilizer and as a cat and pest repellent. Before watering plants, you should put a layer of coffee grounds in the soil surrounding them. Next, the old coffee grounds will gradually break down and release nitrogen. Used coffee grounds may also be diluted in water, preferably gray water, for use as a liquid fertilizer at about pound of used grounds to five gallons of water.

Use coffee grounds about once a month to fertilize vegetable beds, houseplants and flowers. You may then mix the used and dried grounds right with your dirt.

As pest repellent, used coffee grounds can be mixed with orange peels or eggshells and scattered around vegetable or flowerbeds edges. Apparently, slugs and snails don’t like caffeine. An easy inexpensive way to kill almost all slugs and a large proportion of snails is a spray solution that contains 2% caffeine. Felines steer clear of the scent of oranges as well as coffee.

Like urine, adding used coffee grounds to compost heaps will increase their nitrogen content and hasten the breaking-down, or ripening, process.

Clearly human urine and used coffee grounds in use as a natural plant fertilizer isn’t a 21st century scientific discovery. It is just one example of the many natural methods of doing things modern man had thought to improve upon and that is now being re-discovered.

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